How to make a hunting knife
That's how I make my knives. Yes, this lesson is no different from the rest. Do I worry about this? No. And it looks like you too. In the end, you read it. I posted only a few posts, but this does not mean that I did not do a lot of things.
Design of a knife
As the name implies, this hunting knife. I could come up with a design myself, but decided to print a template from the Internet.
Transfer the shapes to steel
This stage comes after you have got the right material. I used carbon steel grade 85. It has excellent qualities and is easy to heat treat. We trace the contour of the knife with a permanent marker. It can make you sweat, but you can do it.After all, you were taught this even in kindergarten.
Cutting the workpiece
It's time to make a piece of metal look like a knife, but not yet a hunting one. For this job I use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. So far, perfect accuracy is not important, it is always easier to achieve with a grinding machine. Therefore, leave a difficult place for it.
Work on the grinder and grinding the contour of the blade
You can now shape the shape of a real knife. Make everything perfect. Let the knife look better than you ever imagined. Or not. I'm not really worried about this. Closer to the point: let its shape repeat the line you selected with the marker. Then you need to align the edges. I made the blade look like Scandinavian. Did not take pictures, but for this procedure you just need to hold the blade at the right angle and grind it.
Drill holes for rivets
This is my least favorite part of the knife making process. For some reason, drilling holes in metal scares me. Perhaps because everything ends with broken drills. And yet, drill a few holes in the shank, choose the location at its discretion. I also made a hole for a lanyard, but you can stick to your chosen design. For the handle, I used 5 mm rivets of an alloy of silver and nickel. You can also use bronze rods, which are sold in large hardware stores.
Heat treatment is my favorite part. What it is? I will tell.The piece of steel you are working on is very soft. So its easier to cut, grind and give it the desired shape. The reverse side of this - the metal is too soft to be a knife. Therefore, it must be made more solid. The best way is to heat the metal to red in the hearth, and then dip it in the oil. The oil cools it very quickly. The only drawback - the metal becomes very fragile, like glass, and can break, for example, if you drop it. Therefore, it must be kept in the oven for several hours at 200 ° C. A moderately heated metal is made a little softer until it becomes ideal for a knife blade. So I did. I warmed it to 800 ° C and then dipped it in vegetable oil (the process caused spectacular burning), and then put the knife in the oven. If in doubt, then there is an easy way to make sure that the knife is warmed up to the required temperature. If you doubt the temperature, you can easily check it with a magnet. If the metal has ceased to magnet, then the blade is heated to 750 ° C. Hold it in the furnace for a few more seconds and then cool.
First you need to find the right tree. I used black walnut because it looks good and I had it at hand. But you can use any kind of hardwood, as long as it is well dried. Why dry? Because wet over time will be deformed and dry out, and completely ruin your knife. So, cut the lining size a little more than the shank of the knife.
Drill holes in the lining
I have not yet found a way to do it properly, because it is difficult to firmly fasten the lining in relation to the shank. Every time I have something wrong. In general, try and make mistakes. Somehow make holes in them so that they coincide with the holes of the shank.
Gluing with epoxy resin
This is one of the stages that irritates me. I don't know why. You need two-component epoxy.resin (glue), preferably with a long drying time. It's hard for me to work with resin, which freezes in five minutes, it adds stress. I used JB Weld, but any two-component glue should work. Sorry that there are no more photos with the process of gluing, but I was in a hurry and completely forgot about it. It's pretty simple. Mix the ingredients together on something, such as a piece of cardboard. Then, using a stick of ice cream or something similar, apply glue on the lining, shank, rivets. Next, clamp the handles with a clamp, make sure that the glue does not get on the blade and wait for the time specified in the instructions. In my case, this is 24 hours.
Giving shape to the handle
Now our linings and rivets are securely glued. The time has come to give shape to the handle. I started with an angle grinder with a radial blade. He removes the material quite quickly, so you need to be more careful, but at this stage the circle copes perfectly.Basically, you need to work on the overlays until glue is visible on the handle.
Giving roundness to the handle and fine polishing
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I was not fond of photographing this process, but everything is pretty clear with it. Using an angle grinder with a flap wheel, carefully shape the rounded plates. Then go to the belt grinder for finer work. If you are satisfied with the shape, you can continue to grind by hand using fine-grained sandpaper, do not get tired of it yet.
Polishing the handle
It’s a pity that there are no photos of this stage, but there’s nothing especially show. Apply a product for finishing polishing of wood of your choice. I used beeswax with melted linseed oil. Here is the knife!
Congratulations, you just made a knife. Now you can use some cool pictures and use it. This knife is cool, it remains sharp for a long time and is easy to sharpen. In terms of its functionality, it is no different from the purchase. As you can see in the last photo, I made a scabbard for it from Kaidex. Just in case, sorry for the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my workshop is not very good.